Art

This Traditional Japanese Textile Craft Is Made with Grooved Fingernails

This Traditional Japanese Textile Craft Is Made with Grooved Fingernails

A fascinating traditional method of weaving textiles in Japan involves its artists filing their nails into tiny grooves, if they wish.

The jagged tips help ensure the thread is going in the exact direction and at the exact distance required when making traditional "tsumekaki hon tsuzure ori" brocades.

These are detailed and long-lasting brocades and the filing nail method has been a part of the traditional Japanese way for at least 1,000 years, per Kiyohara Seiji, a representative of Kiyohara Textile Co. Ltd.

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Nail weaving

Tsuzure Ori means "nail weaving" in Japanese, per the Ardent Thread. And some of the weavers who work in this delicate method file their nails into these tiny grooves.

Tsuzure Ori can be as complex or as simple as the weaver desires, and it requires strong visual focus, which means that some of the artists' eyesight can easily deteriorate over time.

The stunning end pieces made with the Tsuzure Ori method make it seem as though the weaving has, in fact, been painted onto the fabric instead of threaded through.

自らの爪先を切り刻み、道具として使う織物『爪掻本綴織』。
実は千年前から日本にある織物です。そして西陣織最古の織物でもあります。
ウチの職人さんも、柄を織り込む時はだいたいこんな爪で作業してます。 pic.twitter.com/0yR865VljC

— 清原 聖司 (@Sksk72957267) August 18, 2020

Unless there is a specific order, the weavers don't make one. So tsuzure could be more valuable than other woven fabrics, as decribed in an excerpt from an interview with Mrs. Fuwa in the Artistic Handloom Weaver, via the Ardent Thread.

Artists use a shuttle and a comb in order to weave in this way, along with their serated nails, if they have them — not everyone who uses the method files their nails.

The ancient method is most common in the Shiga prefecture and has ties to the Muromachi period (between 1336 and 1573), and this particular method has been in use in Japan for around 1,000 years, per Colossal.

You can learn how the method works by watching the video below:


Watch the video: Lamp, light difusser, privacy panel? This wood panel with shoji paper fits all my needs. (May 2021).